!! NOTE: ALWAYS KEEP YOUR ORIGINAL PACKAGING IN CASE OR RETURN FOR SERVICE !!
Included with Delivery
1 single spouted portafilter
1 double spouted portafilter
1 single basket
1 double basket
1 blind basket
1 metal hose 1/8” 3/8”
1 instruction manual
1 cleaning brush
|Water Tank||3.0 Liter|
Measurements (without portafilter)
Measurements (with portafilter)
!! NOTE: ALWAYS KEEP YOUR ORIGINAL PACKAGING IN CASE OF RETURN FOR SERVICE !!
USING MACHINE WITH DIRECT WATER CONNECTION
- Plug the machine into an electrical outlet. Place the brew lever into the upper position. Turn the machine on by placing the metal switch in the upper position. The coffee boiler is now being heated and the green control lamp will come on. In order to turn on the steam boiler as well, please press the right switch (symbol: steam) located under the drip tray to position ‘1’. The orange control lamp now lights up. Caution! Please make sure that the left switch for the direct water connection (symbol: water tap) is in position ‘1’ (image 2). The machine is now on, the pump is activated and is filling fresh water into the steam boiler. Both boilers are being heated in succession.
- As soon as water is discharged from the brew group, place the brew lever back into the lower position. The coffee boiler is now filled with water.
- As soon as the steam boiler is filled with water, no more pump noise will be heard and the PID-display indicates the current temperature of both boilers. Please wait until the pump pressure gauge indicates a value of ca. 1.0 – 1.25 bars.
- A manual boiler venting is not necessary because the Pro 700 contains a professional Anti-Vacuum valve, which vents the boiler during the heat-up phase.This venting is released through the circular port directly above the drip tray. Caution, steam forms!
- The machine is now ready for use. Put the cups on the cup heater tray in order to preheat them and enjoy your coffee.
The water connecting hose is to be connected to the water supply adapter (image 1). When using the machine with direct water supply, the valve has to be turned towards the opposite side of the water supply adapter opening (image 1). The water supply adapter is located in the rear part of the bottom panel (image 1). Additionally, place the switch behind the drip tray into position “1” (image 2). Please make sure that your water tap is always open during water-connection usage so that the machine never runs out of water! Clive highly recommends using a pressure regulator with plumbed in machines.
USING MACHINE WITH WATER TANK
- Open the cup warming tray.
- Take out the water tank and rinse it thoroughly.
- Fill the water tank with fresh filtered and softened water, place it back into the water tank guides and close the cup warming tray.
- Plug the machine into an electrical outlet and position the brew lever upwards. Turn the machine on by placing the metal power switch in the upper position. The coffee boiler is now being heated and the green control lamp will come on. In order to turn on the steam boiler as well, please make sure that the switch located under the drip tray is in position ‘1’. The machine is now turned on. The pump is activated and is filling the steam boiler with fresh water. Both boilers are being heated in succession.
- As soon as water is released through the brew group, position the brew lever back downward. The coffee boiler is now filled with water. Since much water is used for the initial filling of the boilers, the water tank has to then be refilled with water.
- As soon as the steam boiler is filled with water, the pump will become quiet and the PID-display will show the current temperature of both boilers. When the fresh water in the water tank drops to a certain level, the machine shuts down and the PID-display turns off. You now have to refill fresh water. The machine automatically heats up again.
- Wait until the boiler pressure gauge indicates a value of about 1.0 – 1.25 bars.
- Manual boiler venting is not necessary because the Pro 700 contains a professional Anti-Vacuum valve, which automatically vents the boiler during the heat-up phase.This venting is released through the circular port directly above the drip tray. Caution, steam forms!
- The machine is now operational.
Machine in use with water tank
When using the machine with a water tank, please turn the valve towards the water supply adapter (image 3). Additionally, place the switch behind the drip tray into position “0” (image 4).
Image 3 Image 4
Valve in position for operating Place switch into position “0“ when
machine with water tank operating machine with water tank
Figuring out the right water to use doesn’t need to be super complex. Primarily, we are looking for clean, filtered water that has some but not too much mineral content. We recommend using water hardness test strips (we also include them with every direct-plumbable machine purchase). These test strips will allow you to measure exactly how hard your water is. We recommend using a water softener if you get a measurement of below 50 parts per million (PPM) or 3 grains per gallon (GPG). As mentioned above, some mineral content (above 30 PPM) is necessary for the best tasting espresso, and also for the machine to run without overfilling the boilers. Reverse osmosis systems typically will take all the mineral out of the water, and this is problematic as well as the machine requires mineral content for many of the internal sensors. For most optimal results, we recommend hardness above 80ppm and below 150ppm.
Checking your water hardness cannot be stressed enough because water that is too hard can cause excessive scale buildup inside your machine. This will reduce heating efficiency, can clog water passages, lead to inaccurate readings from temperature and level probes, and cause failure of valves and seals which can cause a mess on your countertop. Also, because water quality in city water sources and wells changes seasonally, we recommend checking your water every three to four months.
The other basic requirement is filtration. This removes solids from the water, such as tiny pieces of dirt, rust, or grit. Additionally, water filters can reduce chlorine and other tastes and odors. Even if your water looks clean, there will still be a small amount of particulate matter that passes through, and this can lead to clogged water passages and leaking seals.
Filtration and softening prevent the most common threats to the reliability of your machine, but there are many other factors to consider. We recommend you seek out a local expert if you have any questions or concerns about your area’s water.
Remember that problems arising due to poor water quality are not covered by warranty. But if care is taken in filtration and softening, your machine will serve you well for years with minimal maintenance.
What is the right water setup for you? Are you planning to plumb in your machine, or use the water reservoir?
For the reservoir
Always check your water quality with test strips first because if you are in an area with soft water, you may only need to filter it. There are plenty of options for filtering and softening your water. A few options are filter/softening pitchers such as the Soma Water filter pitchers, in-tank water softeners, and bottled water. With bottled water, these also vary in terms of mineral content, so we also recommend testing the bottled water with test strips. A couple affordable water bottle companies with just the right amount of mineral content are Crystal Geyser and Poland Springs.
For direct plumbed machines
If you plan to plumb in your machine, or have it plumbed in already, we carry water filter only systems, and water filter and softening systems that come with all the fittings you need to connect directly to your water source on one end, and the water line directly to your machine on the other end. These are easy to install and will ensure you are getting the ideal water to your machine with every use.
Feel free to contact us with any questions on water or finding the right setup for you!
- Establish your setup so that you have your milk pitcher, espresso cup or shot glasses, and a bar towel ready. It is important that your machine has been on and is fully heated up.
- Remove the portafilter from the group head and dry it out with your towel. It is common for moisture and excess coffee grounds to be in the portafilter basket, but you will want to be sure everything is clean, dry and ready to go before brewing.
- Place your portafilter under the chute of your grinder and begin grinding. To ensure consistency, you should use a gram scale or have a time programmed on your grinder. You want to be sure that your coffee is no more than 10-14 days old and is properly stored away from air, moisture and light. Coffee can be left in the bean hopper, just be sure it doesn't stay too full so that your coffee is only sitting in the hopper for a couple days at most.
- After grinding, the goal is to have a tidy pile of grounds in your basket.
- The next step is to settle your coffee grounds. While firmly holding your portafilter handle, give the flat part of your portafilter head two even and firm taps on your tamping mat or towel. This settles the mound and rids your grounds of any air pockets that could cause channeling, or uncontrolled espresso sprays during your shot extraction (this is only seen when using bottomless portafilters).
- Now it's time to make the coffee bed level. With the flat part of your portafilter basket level on the counter, use your pointer finger to swipe the grounds front, back, left, and right. Be careful to not pat or poke the coffee grounds. Each small detail in your routine plays a major role in the consistency of your process so pay close attention to the details of your technique and do the same thing every time.
- Next we tamp. Tamping establishes a coffee bed that is even and level. When you tamp properly, the coffee bed will build op uniform resistance to the pressurized brewing water and ensures even extraction. Be sure your portafilter is flat and that you aren't tamping at an angle. Grasp your tamper handle as if you were shaking hands with a door knob. With your elbow at a 90 degree angle, apply light, even, and equal force to the coffee bed. Use your thumb and forefinger to help evenly guide your tamper into the basket. You are just leaning your weight into the tamp, no need to brutally tamp as hard as you possibly can.
- Tamp once. You do not need to tamp a second or third time, but feel free to lightly spin the tamper to settle excess grounds into the coffee bed. This is not a necessity.
- You can purge the group head for a second to ensure the water and grouphead are up to optimum temperature. This also removes any old grounds and coffee oils from the screen.
- Carefully install portafilter into grouphead. Start with the handle at about a 8 o'clock position and rotate counterclockwise until it is locked in snug- no need to wrench the thing into place.
- Now the fun part: Engage the pump to begin pulling your shot. You should see the first drops of your shot appear at about 6-9 seconds depending on the age and type of coffee as well as the portafilter type. The drops will take a few seconds to form a steady and constant stream that resembles warm honey. Once the stream thickens and picks up speed the color will go from the darker red-brown to a more homogenous color.
- Once the shot hits the 1.5-2oz mark, stop your shot. If you need to make adjustments to your grinder, jump to the next section 'ADJUSTING YOUR GRINDER'. If your shot is where you want it, either enjoy it immediately or combine it with steamed milk. Read more in the following section 'STEAMING MILK'. Alternatively, float the espresso on top of some hot water for an Americano.
- After pulling your shot remove your portafilter and knock your grounds into a knock box or trash can. This is a good habit to get into and will reduce coffee build up on the shower screen.
Dialing in your grinder
Some grinders are preset from the factory a bit too fine, which may mean that no grounds come out. But not to worry; we’re here to help! Please review these instructions, and make sure to call us before you get frustrated.
Plan to invest a full bag of freshly roasted coffee learning how to dial in your grinder, but the goal of this post is to minimize waste and simplify the learning process. Also, keep in mind that your grinder should perform better after you’ve ground a few pounds of coffee through it (this is called seasoning the burrs).
Step 1: Plug in the grinder, install the hopper, open the hopper throat
Step 2: Choosing your method of dose, eliminating the variable of quantity
Option 1: Adding the amount of beans needed for one drink at a time is called single dosing. Some grinders can do this better than others, but feel free to give it a try. Single dosing requires a finer grind than having a hopper full of beans, and it takes longer to grind the coffee because there isn’t weight in the hopper pushing the beans through. But the advantages are that beans can be stored in an airtight container (instead of going stale in the hopper), and it’s possible to switch from one coffee to another more easily. If you find that you can’t get a thick, even 25 second extraction with single dosing then your grinder may need to have a bit more weight pressing down on the coffee.
Option 2: Putting beans in the hopper and grinding by programmed time or sight simplifies the routine a bit over single dosing. When dialing in your grinder, it’s helpful to have a scale to verify the quantity of coffee you’re grinding and a stopwatch to verify how long your shot takes. Many grinders have the option of timed grinding, and we’d recommend your first step be to set a grind time that dispenses the amount of coffee that you want in the portafilter. The grounds should form a nice mound coming slightly above the level of the basket, but not so full that your machine is left dirty (hint, inspect the shower screen and brewing area regularly to see if your routine needs adjustment). The double espresso basket used in most spouted portafilters can accommodate 14-18 grams of coffee, and the triple baskets used in bottomless portafilters can hold 18-22 grams. Any of these volumes can be adjusted for a proper extraction, so choose the amount that gives you the size of shot you like.
3. Grinding for the first time
Try your grinder’s factory setting before making an adjustment. If no grounds come out, follow the troubleshooting process below. Tare your scale (if available) with the empty portafilter on top. Set your grind time to dispense the preferred amount of coffee, or grind manually until you have the desired quantity. For programming questions, refer to your product manual or contact us. Verify your double dose is in the 14-18 gram range, or your triple dose is in the 18-22 gram range. If your dose changes by a gram or two, this can have the effect of making a big adjustment to a grind setting (shots speed up or slow down), so the scale is helpful for solidifying your routine until you feel confident. If you activate the grinder and no grounds are being dispensed, gradually adjust the grind courser (while the grinder is running) until a stream of coffee starts to flow out.
- For Macap grinders, adjusting course means the top collar with number indicators needs to rotate clockwise. Look for the word “grosso” to be rotating to the left.
- For Profitec grinders, the top collar needs to rotate counter clockwise (note the arrows that point right for course, left for fine).
- For Eureka grinders, rotate the micrometric knob counter clockwise towards “grosso”
- For Fiorenzato and Mazzer grinders, rotate the top collar clockwise towards “grosso”
- For Baratza Vario or Forte AP, the macro setting on the right should be set at 2, and adjusting courser means the left side micro adjust goes down.
- For Breville Smart Grinder, course means the grind indicator should move to the left and the numbers increase.
- For Breville Dose Control, course means the collar should rotate clockwise with the numbers increasing.
4. Pulling your first shot
Make sure the coffee is evenly distributed in the espresso basket, as an empty spot will be easier for the pressurized water to punch a hole through (inspect the spent coffee puck for holes). Use your finger if necessary to gently sweep the coffee up, down, left and right. Make sure your tamper is level, and apply medium pressure (not too light, not too heavy). Consistency is typically more important than the exact force. Start your shot and stop watch at the same time, and keep track of how long it takes for 1.5oz to be dispensed. The goal is a total shot time of 25-30 seconds, starting when the pump is activated. If your shot reaches 1.5oz in less than 25 seconds, it can be sour, lacking body (under extracted). If this takes more than 25 seconds, it can have excessive body, with muddy flavors (over extracted).
5. Dialing in your grind
If your shot takes less than 20 seconds, the grind needs to be adjusted finer. If the shot takes more than 30 seconds it needs to be adjusted courser. It’s important to make gradual adjustments, and remember that changes don’t take effect immediately (there will still be some coffee remaining inside from your last shot, that needs to be pushed through). Worm drive adjustment is very slow, so making a half rotation adjustment to the knob may seem to have no effect (so at first you may want to start by making full rotations or more). Micrometric adjustment or rotating the top collar by hand can make big changes quickly. Whichever type of grinder you have, remember that only by experimenting gradually will your grind adjustment become intuitive. Keep your scale and stop watch handy, and keep track of how much the adjustment translates into the time of the shot. Once the shots are consistently 25-30 seconds, you should only have to make small occasional adjustments to keep them in this range.
Once of our favorite milk steaming videos here at Clive is this video by Verve Coffee Roasters- take a look!
For non-video folks - here are the instructions in written form. However, it is important to hear the sound of good milk steaming. That sound is the key to consistency.
- Add cold milk into your pitcher. For best results, keep milk level below the base of the pour spout groove. You can see this from the inside of the pitcher.
- Aim the steam wand over the drip tray and release the condensation sitting in the steam wand by turning it on and letting it run for a few seconds until just steam, and no water, is coming out. Turn steam off.
- Return steam wand to normal position, facing pour and place the steam wand tip into milk so that only half of the steam tip is visible. Be careful to not have it too far submerged, or sitting too ar above the milk.
- Check your location before you start. You want your tip to be between the center and the edge of the pitcher on either the left or the right side.
- Begin steaming! You will want to immediately hear a slight suctioning sound. If you do not hear anything, bring your steam tip further up towards the surface until you do. If the steam wand is making big bubble sounds, bring the steam tip just slightly lower in the pitcher. The more hissing/suctioning you hear, the more air is being incorporated and the more foam you will have.
- You will want to incorporate the air into the pitcher until the pitcher begins to warm up, or get to be about the temperature of your hand. Once your pitcher feels warm, stay in the same location and bring the steam tip slightly below the surface. This is a very subtle movement, so be careful not to bring the steam wand too low otherwise you will not get the vortex, or swirling needed to achieve the silky and uniform texture.
- While the milk is swirling and mixing, pay attention to the temperature. You will want to keep the vortex going until the pitcher goes from warm to hot. The pitcher should be hot to the touch, but not uncomfortable. Shut the steam off.
- Remove steam wand from the milk and wipe your steam wand with a wet towel before purging the steam wand again. Be careful not to burn yourself, aiming the steam wand over the drip tray when purging is a safe way to do this.
- You will almost always have to give your milk pitcher a few taps on the counter to rid the pitcher of bubbles, and give it a few firm swirls to help even out the texture.
Ready to take it from great milk to great art...
The place we want to start is with water and detergent backflushing. We recommend a water backflush on any day the machine is used, but if you can just manage once a week that will be fine as well. Detergent backflushing we recommend about once a month for E61 machines.
- Insert blind filter and add up to 1/2 teaspoon (3 g) of Full Circle wash. Lock your portafilter into the group head.
- Activate brew cycle for 10 seconds and allow the machine to release pressure. Repeat 5-8 times, depending on how dirty your grouphead is.
- Remove portafilter. Activate brew cycle and rinse portafilter in stream of water from group head. Stop cycle.
- Insert blind filter. Lock your portafilter into group head again, this time with a clean blind filter without the cleaner. Repeat step 2 to rinse and make sure no detergent residue is left.
- Make and discard a shot of espresso (only for detergent backflush).
- Soak filters and metal portion of portafilter (do not submerge plastic handle) for 30 minutes in 1 teaspoon (6 g) of Full Circle powder per 32 oz. (1 L) of hot water.
- Rinse with water and put filters back (only for detergent backflush).
Once you incorporate backflushing into a monthly maintenance routine, the 5 extra minutes it takes to show your machine some love will save both your tastebuds and your wallet but even a backflushing routine can’t clean out everything on the other side of your dispersion screen. However a little scrubbing or a new dispersion screen can make a world of difference in the cup produced by your machine. The process of removing your dispersion screen and cleaning your machine is a simple one that we recommend once a week as a part of maintaining your machine and creating a quality cup of espresso. Below we will explore the removal of the different kinds of screens, cleaning and reinstalling.
Remove the screen
Tools you will need:
- Pallo Brush
- Replacement Gasket - if necessary
Gasket tension: E61s use the tension of the group gasket to lock the screen in place. To remove an E61 screen you’ll need a flathead screwdriver to pry out the screen and gasket, using the edge of the grouphead as counter torque to loosen it from where it is held.
Scrub the screen
Once you’ve removed your screen you can scrub all the built up grime out of the inside of your group head and screen. To get all the unwanted build up out of your group we recommend a warm, wet rag and a Pallo brush. The rag will help to loosen up any hardened coffee grounds and debris inside the group head and screen. After you’ve scrubbed the screen and group with a rag give them a good scrubbing with a brush and use the rag again to clean out the leftovers.
We do not recommend using a brush with hard bristles on the screen as it can cause inconsistencies in how it disperses the water and give you channeling every time you pull shots with that screen in place. Dropping your portafilter and screen into a glass of water with 1 scoop of Full Circle for 15 minutes will get it nice and clean and avoid the harshness.
Some machines have an internal dispersion plate that is removable as well as an external dispersion screen, these plates are removable and also will need to be cleaned as they can have coffee grind build up over time.
After somewhere between one and two years we recommend a new screen entirely for your machine as even with concise cleaning they wear and need replacing.
Once the inside of your group and screen are pristine you can reinsert the screen the same way you removed it. For E61 groups we recommend using a food safe lubricant, such as Molykote 111, on the gasket to reseat the gasket and screen.
Use a screwdriver to gently push the gasket back in place. A great pro tip is to remove the basket from your portafilter and use that to ensure the gasket is fully seated back on the group head.
Now that you’ve cleaned your group head rejoice at the clear, concise flavor you’ve helped your machine to produce! Cheers!